Flowing Designs: An Interview with designer Audrey Lam

With a Master’s Degree in Fashion, specializing in print, Audrey Lam started her career designing first for Diesel and then for Calvin Klein. She started her own business in 2005 where she consulted with other designers. In 2011, Audrey launched her début collection of scarves.

Created from Audrey's own original prints, the audrey collection "is inspired by her own etchings, observations and photos that capture the vibrancy and nuances of New York."

Audrey took time out of her schedule to answer our questions about her creations and inspirations.

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Your scarves are gorgeous. How do you come up with each of your designs?

I take inspiration from my personal artwork, etchings, photos and textile work. I observe everything around me; my camera is pretty much out all the time.

What is your design process?

I put together a color story and imagery then create artwork based around little vignettes. Artwork can be in the form of drawing and printmaking. I used to do printmaking alongside my BA textile degree at Edinburgh Art college. I love printmaking; it really calms me down in the whole creative process and makes me think about what I am doing.

I don't really follow fashion trends even though I work in the fashion industry. I prefer to focus on visually interesting ideas and develop color into a theme to make it work overall. If it happens to fall into THE color of the season then great, but I don't deliberate over colors like in the fashion industry. After creating and developing the hands on "real artwork" from drawings/silk screen printing/etchings, I scan the images and begin to work on the computer creating a layout and reducing the colors so it can be produced at the factories in Italy and China.

Part of the design process is knowing the limitations; you may be able to produce amazing artwork, but knowing how to produce something that can stay true to what you originally created and technically follow it through is the key challenge. Once in the hands of the technical process it can change a lot.

Do you first sketch out your design in pencil and then recreate it on the computer?

I never sketch out first. I work directly on an idea, scan in images and artwork I like and more or less create then and there the scarf layouts. It's so easy to create a one-color print and put it out there these days. The audrey brand differs from other print-based brands as there is a sense of artisan qualities where there is original artwork and craftsmanship behind each scarf. These days, everything seems to be vintage based. We need more original artwork that will be the next vintage inspirational pieces for another generation.

When you design a scarf, do you think of one particular person who will be wearing it? If so, who have been your inspiration?

I don't have a particular person in mind as I want it to be accessible to all, but an air of confidence and individuality is a good thing! I can imagine the classic Audrey Hepburn to someone like Gwen Stefani wearing an audrey scarf as well as a Kate Middleton, Moss or Hudson to the more eccentric Little Edie from Grey Gardens fame.

I want to use silk in the collection to reinvent its image--make it more accessible and less formal as it still has associations with the older generation. Even though it is a luxury collection, it is "luxury" in the sense that silk has many special qualities: colors are more vibrant on silk; silk insulates--it cools and warms the body, so perfect for summer and winter in fact. Its smooth and fine structure means it isn't bulky like a lot of winter scarves. These are items that are year-round accessories.

I think the person wearing it, though, has an appreciation of print and pattern and can wear it with confidence either elaborately or in a more modest way. That's the beauty of having a scarf--it's so versatile--you can show off more of the print and make a statement or just roll it up until you just see glimpses of color to compliment an outfit.

The two films you made to advertise your scarves reminded me of a short independent art film. Is your target audience people who prefer those style of films?

I guess those films create a mood, an experience a story that we want people to appreciate some romanticism, imagination and beauty on a Brooklyn urban rooftop! I would hope the people who can appreciate the films have a sense of design and beauty whether it be in clothes or just their surroundings. I wouldn't say my target audience prefers these films; it's just a film showing off the scarves in it's simplest form the rest is left to the imagination of the wearer.

How often do you come up with you collection? Are materials part of your collection style?

Right now, twice a year spring/summer and fall/winter. Silk will always be a part of the collection, but modal/cashmere blends will be introduced for the latest collection. At the end of the day, I want people to be able to wear something that looks a little different to what's out there on the market in terms of scarves--the urban ditzy and tiger finn scarves are your new modern animal prints--just a different take on your average leopard print. Whether it's a bolder signature print or an allover pattern there is a print to love for everyone with the audrey handwriting!

Who are three of your favorite artists/designers?

I cannot pin down my favorite artist/designer; I'm a textile artist, a magpie. I do love the oldies though: Picasso, Matisse even Renaissance painters like Uccello. Designers would be Josef Frank and, of course, the amazing Alexander Mcqueen. All pioneers in art and design.